Thrills and Spills

In the thick of it!

You can´t help but be full of appreciation for being born into a culture that offers so much choice and priviledge. When you see hoards of workers smashing stones in clouds of dust, when you see men labouring to move their cycle trailors with every ounce of strength under a massive load, when you see women doing the laundry in a filthy pond! Life is hard in India for the majority but it´s inspiring to see how we are received everywhere we go - with smiles and handshakes and characteristic shakes of the head. Many have mobile phones and are keen to take photos of us and to have their photo taken with us.

So we are two thirds of the way towards our destination and at the end of 4 days of cycling. There have been a number of occasions over the past two days when I have asked myself what the hell I am doing! It´s been tough going with roads in horrendous condition, thick clouds of exhaust fumes (no unleaded petrol here), terrifying lorries and buses bearing down on us, deafening klaxons that are in danger of bursting ear drums and rancid smells.

The level of concentration required to stay alive is exacting and I keep reminding myself of the Bhuddist practice of mindfulness (being aware in every second of one´s focus and actions). The road surface is so broken and lumpy for most of the time that to take your eye off the next few meters could result in disaster. Similarly not to be aware of everything happening around you could also be bad news: fellow cyclists braking sharply in front of you; a cow throwing it´s head into your path; a bus overtaking and bearing down on you causing you to leave the road for the verge (if there is one); a rickshaw 'merging' from the left; a dead dog on the road; a huge pothole. The list is really endless! One of our party had a nasty spill this morning which resulted in a minor head injury and many have 'spilled'!

Sunset over the Ganges

We are being well looked after by our support team consisting mainly of guys from Sikkim. Great food and the much looked forward to bowl of warm water as we arrive in camp!

Today we crossed the Ganges on a 3km long causeway and later on had to contend with a spontaneous strike in the middle of a major town which caused a huge traffic jam. We ended up taking a diversion which was very interesting as it took us off the main road north for a change and give us an insight into Bengali village life.

More of the same tomorrow before we can look forward to a better road surface the day after and  night in a hotel after 5 nights camping!

I am also full of appreciation to all those who have donated and this reminds me why we are putting ourselves through some of these challenging moments!