Back to Kolkata

We arrived back in Kolkata early this morning having caught the sleeper from Silliguri. We travelled first class air con so with 4 berths to a compartment it was fairly comfortable. As the train was pulling into the station, a swarm of coolies (porters) boarded the train and bagged their customers. We soon had 10 of them carrying our rucksacks and bags on their heads off the train, down the platform and out into the melee of the station concourse. We had a hard job keeping up with them. We were uncertain what scene would greet us as we emerged from the train station since a general strike had been called across the city by the Communist opposition and we weren´t sure whether there would be any taxis but there plenty of yellow Ambassador taxis waiting and after a lively discussion with the coolies over remuneration we were soon speeding through empty streets to our hotel.

Yesterday afternoon we started the 670km return journey to Kolkata. It was fun travelling down from Kalimpong, on the way to Silliguri, and retracing in reverse the route we had taken with the bikes a couple of days before. We patted ourselves on the back and commented on the steepness of the road we had slogged 4,000 feet up on the bikes.

After a good breakfast we set about dismantling our bikes and packaging them up for the return journey. The Indian Railway´s rules about transporting bikes meant that the saddles had been covered with sackcloth and written on as well as a number marked on the frame in indelible ink! It is incredible to think that there wasn´t a single puncture between the thirteen of us over the seven days and road conditions we cycled!

Anyone for cricket?

With the bikes all packaged up we set out to explore Kolkata. The streets were deserted so the comparative peace and lack of vehicle fumes was a bonus. We ended up at the Oberoi Grand Hotel for a drink and then walked around the Victoria Monument and the massive common and adjacent racecourse in the centre of the city. The magnificent architecture from the glory days of the Raj is in stark contrast to the abject poverty seen around corners of the park. There were lots of informal games of cricket taking place all over the massive common.
Time to catch up with the rest of the team before we go our separate ways and head for home early tomorrow morning.     

Mission Accomplished!

 What a climb! The last two hours of the Bike Bengal cycle was by far the most challenging with a climb of over 4,000 feet in just 15 kms. It was far harder than anticipated and a huge challenge for all of us. Hearts were pumping, legs were pumping, lungs gasping and heads burning. Having cycled as a group for six and a half days  the climb had to be something that each of us did on our own. The climb seemed endless and was crushingly steep in places.

Celebrating after the climb

Happy, smiling faces cheered us along and children shouted ´Hi´, ´Namaste´ or even ´Faster!´ which helped and went some way to make up for being blasted by fumes from passing jeeps. It was such a relief to see the 3 ahead of me sitting by the road to welcome those that followed!  They insisted that they had just got there a few minutes before me which was decent of them as there had been a lot of banter about who would make it first.

We then had tea and biscuits waiting for the others. Local TV were on hand and interview a few of us. Once everyone had arrived we walked with our bikes along the main road through Kalimpong to meet up with the Dr Graham´s Homes school band. They then played us through the town which was an amazing experience with all eyes on us and people waving from open windows as well as along both sides of the street.

Ken being welcomed by the children

Dr Graham´s Homes is situated high above the town so there was still some climbing to be done. We walked a good way with our bikes as group and then mounted again with the gates to the school in sight. Riding through the gates we were greeted by cheers from the school children who were lining the driveway which went on and on. The children´s cheers kept us going as we climbed on and on. Every child was there and cheering and it was an extremely moving experience! Just as we thought our legs were going to give out completely we reached the main school campus. A reception followed with a few speeches.

It was fantastic to get a lift down to the Himalayan Hotel in Kalimpong and have a hot shower followed by a wee, pre-dinner dram with cousin Alan and a reflection on the day and what we had achieved! Celebrations continued long after dinner before we sank into comfortable beds with the prospect of Sunday service at the school in the morning followed by lunch with the principal and a chance to see how repairs to the earthquake damage are progressing.
     

Thrills and Spills

In the thick of it!

You can´t help but be full of appreciation for being born into a culture that offers so much choice and priviledge. When you see hoards of workers smashing stones in clouds of dust, when you see men labouring to move their cycle trailors with every ounce of strength under a massive load, when you see women doing the laundry in a filthy pond! Life is hard in India for the majority but it´s inspiring to see how we are received everywhere we go - with smiles and handshakes and characteristic shakes of the head. Many have mobile phones and are keen to take photos of us and to have their photo taken with us.

So we are two thirds of the way towards our destination and at the end of 4 days of cycling. There have been a number of occasions over the past two days when I have asked myself what the hell I am doing! It´s been tough going with roads in horrendous condition, thick clouds of exhaust fumes (no unleaded petrol here), terrifying lorries and buses bearing down on us, deafening klaxons that are in danger of bursting ear drums and rancid smells.

The level of concentration required to stay alive is exacting and I keep reminding myself of the Bhuddist practice of mindfulness (being aware in every second of one´s focus and actions). The road surface is so broken and lumpy for most of the time that to take your eye off the next few meters could result in disaster. Similarly not to be aware of everything happening around you could also be bad news: fellow cyclists braking sharply in front of you; a cow throwing it´s head into your path; a bus overtaking and bearing down on you causing you to leave the road for the verge (if there is one); a rickshaw 'merging' from the left; a dead dog on the road; a huge pothole. The list is really endless! One of our party had a nasty spill this morning which resulted in a minor head injury and many have 'spilled'!

Sunset over the Ganges

We are being well looked after by our support team consisting mainly of guys from Sikkim. Great food and the much looked forward to bowl of warm water as we arrive in camp!

Today we crossed the Ganges on a 3km long causeway and later on had to contend with a spontaneous strike in the middle of a major town which caused a huge traffic jam. We ended up taking a diversion which was very interesting as it took us off the main road north for a change and give us an insight into Bengali village life.

More of the same tomorrow before we can look forward to a better road surface the day after and  night in a hotel after 5 nights camping!

I am also full of appreciation to all those who have donated and this reminds me why we are putting ourselves through some of these challenging moments!

Reflections on the road

Safely in camp at the end of the second day of cycling and getting in the zone now. We have covered 215km now since leaving the centre of Kolkata at 07.00 on Sunday morning. Not many westeners can say that they have cycled through Kolkata and why indeed would they aspire to?

The first day was long and tiring and we felt the heat at the middle of the day. We also had to contend with a whole lot more: smog and fumes from all the traffic even once we left the city as there was habitation either side of the road most of the way; drops off the side of the road from layer on layer of tarmac - a real hazard which was the cause of a few spills as some were forced off the road by the traffic; potholes; manic drivers - bus drivers in particular drive like men possessed and endager the lives of their passengers and everyone else; klaxons which are sounded all the time. I felt my eardrums ringing a few times as  lorries clattered alongside and blasted us to get out of the way.

India is a total assault on the senses. The colours, the smells, the sights, and the sounds!

We crossed the Tropic of Cancer this morning and then had a wonderful interaction with villagers when we stopped for lunch. The usual crowd gathered and there was a very natural sharing of names and the children were excited to have their photo taken and then see themselves on the camera´s digital screen.
Tonight we are camping on open ground next to the cricket ground and the circus and sharing it with cows, egrets and, of course, locals.

Cycling this morning was painful with a sore bum as well as wrists due to all the vibration from the rough road surface and navigating through potholes. Our fantastic support team includes a physio and after lunch I felt the benefit of a session. I felt really good on the bike this afternoon and was dying to push on. For safety reasons we stay in a reasonable group behind a lead car and therefore stick to a pace that suits all.
 
Tomorrow we have a shorter day of just 65km which will allow us time for a boat ride across the river Ganges to a small market.     

Boarding

Judging by the queue in the departure lounge this will be the biggest plane I have been on for a while! So good not to be flying with laptop in hand luggage for a change!
The bike box is very manageable and fitted in the taxi to the airport no problem. I am just hoping it travels well!
Very exciting to be on the way now after all the preparations. We start cycling early on Sunday morning from Kolkata.
Thanks for all the support, donations and messages of encouragement over the past few weeks.
More to follow when I next have Internet access!

Counting down!

Popped into the bike shop at the end of the day and the bike is all serviced and ready for adventure! Joe at Gear Bikes in Gibson Street is going to organise a box and pack the bike for me ready for the flight. I will collect it on my way to the airport by taxi. So, all preparation is done and counting down now to the off on Friday!
I am so full of appreciation for all those who have donated so far and got me so near to my fundraising target of £2,000. I have only a couple of hundred more to get there and it would be wonderful to make it before Friday.
Imodium is packed and an Indian meal planned for Wednesday as part of the acclimatisation! I am really looking forward to it now! I am hoping to be able to update the blog now and again on the trip. Could be a challenge during the cycle given that we are camping but watch this space!

Dehli Belly

"I woke in the early morning with a painful stomach only to discover that my diahorrea had returned with avengance and although I wasn't so dehabilitated through weakness as previously, the stomach cramps were worse and woke me twice more during the night. I had long, miserable periods in the loo with a stubborn taste of spices in my sinuses. This whole thing was becoming extremely tedious since it was now 7 days since the problem had started in New Dehli."

This is taken from my travel diary from 2nd July 1991, the last time I was in India. This was at the end of the first week. My stomach problems continued for another 11 weeks until I left!

I really need to avoid Dehli Belly this time around!

Please help me make it to my fundraising target. Less than 2 weeks to go now. It's easy to donate here. Thank you!